Tedd92 In reply to h-drawer [2015-04-06 06:14:30 +0000 UTC]

Well, you have a style I like, and I'm dying to see how Love is not Genre will go.

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Tedd92 In reply to jijikero [2012-06-06 21:23:41 +0000 UTC]

Well, you gave me first, only fair you get something in return ^^,

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Tedd92 In reply to jassia-chan [2011-12-27 14:47:25 +0000 UTC]

Sure ^^, For a moment, I thought; "who is this crazy woman thanking me? What did I do?" Until I got a closer look at your gallery and realized that I your story!

It's really great!

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jassia-chan In reply to Tedd92 [2011-12-27 15:17:50 +0000 UTC]

Thanks hihi. But no one commented it jet :/
But I´m really happy something from my head is able to make someone else enjoy reading
*_*

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Tedd92 In reply to MissMonie [2011-06-09 09:05:02 +0000 UTC]

I did ^^,

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Tedd92 In reply to KillMePleaseGod [2011-04-14 22:27:43 +0000 UTC]

wow! I had all but forgotten that I suggested the names! XD

As for the quality, it can always be improved someway or another later on (if you tend to do that)

I'm all happy you used the names!

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KillMePleaseGod In reply to Tedd92 [2011-04-14 22:48:26 +0000 UTC]

XD I'm not surprised. God knows it's been forever that I've not really used any of the suggestions from that journal. I'm always looking at them, though, and I decided when I started this story that I was at least going to use some of the suggested names. And I'm glad it makes you happy that I used them~<3

I don't really tend to improve or change things, other than typos. Normally I just reread a story after a few months and realize I don't actually hate it (as much) anymore. I really don't know what it is about some of my stories that irks me so terribly when I first finish them. >>;

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Tedd92 In reply to DeadSoulMate [2011-01-02 14:24:03 +0000 UTC]

Sure thing ^^, (I totzally enjoyed faving it, too)

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Tedd92 In reply to Nadykun [2010-11-29 21:31:09 +0000 UTC]

Your cafe au lait is cute! Need more!

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Tedd92 In reply to storytellingeyes [2010-10-23 19:53:37 +0000 UTC]

Oh, I forgot to comment! (I really planned to comment)

Now you will get a comment!

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Tedd92 In reply to RiotEye [2010-08-29 12:26:54 +0000 UTC]

x)

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Tedd92 In reply to totodile2mew [2010-05-25 23:34:53 +0000 UTC]

Sure thing! It was great! Might import this thing to Norway (that silent thing, not the story itself, that would be stealing).

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totodile2mew In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-26 16:04:41 +0000 UTC]

thank you! what's "Norway?" i've never heard of it before...

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Tedd92 In reply to totodile2mew [2010-05-26 21:55:05 +0000 UTC]

... You're not the strongest in Geography? Norway is a country in Northern Europe. It's very small (search it up on wikipedia or something) compared to the States. Did it help you any?

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totodile2mew In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-26 22:44:59 +0000 UTC]

oooh! the actual country Norway!! i thought that you might have been talking about a program or something. lol

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Tedd92 In reply to totodile2mew [2010-05-26 22:47:49 +0000 UTC]

yeah.

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totodile2mew In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-26 23:09:56 +0000 UTC]

oooh! now ur comment makes more sense!!!! yeah! that would be awesome!!! so, u live in norway?

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Tedd92 In reply to totodile2mew [2010-05-27 04:06:14 +0000 UTC]

sort of. At this moment I'm finishing my exchange year in Brazil, but by june, I'll be home again ^^,

I miss codfish. And my wacom tablet. And somehow, that constellation "the big spoon".

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totodile2mew In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-27 13:54:20 +0000 UTC]

oh coolz! *jealous* i'm happy for you! so what year are you?

do they not have cod in Brazil? lol, we call it "the big dipper" here. what's a wacom tablet?

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Tedd92 In reply to totodile2mew [2010-05-27 23:48:53 +0000 UTC]

this year's suppposed to be second year arts major in highschool (year 12 in the school system), but I'm taking the year over, my grades were too bad during the exchange.

No, codfish is an arctic fishtype, it prefer cold waters. Well, in Norwegian, the name would be Karlsvogna, because it could also be a wagon.

A WACOM tablet is a brand of electronic graphic tablets. The kind digital artist use for their art. I got it some months before I left home, and I b\never quite learned on it. Can't wait!

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totodile2mew In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-28 00:00:24 +0000 UTC]

oh cool! that means we're not too far apart in age! niceness!

ah right. that makes sense. i love cod fish! i eat it every friday at this fish fry i work at. too bad i'm allergic to cod. it tastes so good! luckily, it only gives me a headache and i don't break out in hives or something.

oh! okay! that sounds awesome! happy for you!

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Tedd92 In reply to totodile2mew [2010-05-28 00:06:42 +0000 UTC]

For the record, I'm 18, so you would be somewhere at 16-20 years old? (let's just say you're 16, shall we?)

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totodile2mew In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-28 00:08:03 +0000 UTC]

well actually i turn 16 this november.

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Tedd92 In reply to totodile2mew [2010-05-28 00:50:18 +0000 UTC]

close enough ^^,

Have you figured out what you wanna do after high school? I'm thinking very seriously about studying abroad, design and arts.

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totodile2mew In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-28 00:59:28 +0000 UTC]

yeah, well, my plan is to become something in the medical field. probably a doctor or a pharmacy person. i want to go into the military to do so, but they have to pull their heads out of their asses first.

and that's really cool! that would be an awesome thing to do with your life! i say go for it!

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Tedd92 In reply to inspiredcreativity [2010-05-02 15:53:11 +0000 UTC]

I'll answer this in the order you brought things up.

I feel exactly the same way about art. I just love a picture that can tell it's own story, or get a story to go with whatever piece I find out there in the world and on the internet.

When you mention it, I agree (though, I'm horrible at telling jokes). I'm strong in both a theoretical and a practical way. My teachers at my high school think that sometimes, I score higher on the written part of an exercise than on the practical one. I really want to do something artistical as a job, and for the moment, I'm aiming at industrial design.

Well, english is actually my third language (I'm bilingual, Norwegian and Islandic), but I get you message. In Norway, you learn english from first grade, up until university, and from there, all education normally go in english. I also love reading, so my vocabulary is quite big.

As for the creative mind, it seems to be in the family. My islandic family is very musical, and many in my norwegian family work in the creative field of works (mostly architecture, but still)

I would love to learn more about drawing, and digital retouching too. I have this electronic tablet, Intuos3 size A4. It's big and I just like it. But I havenæt quite learned how to use it, as ity was expensive and big, and I didn't want to risk it on the exchange. But I want to learn about these things.

A motto of mine is to use every situation possible to learn.

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inspiredcreativity In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-03 11:05:53 +0000 UTC]

For Drawing, there are two main focuses you can have. There is Portrait and Figure Drawing (human anatomy). There is also drawing landscapes, inside scenes, outside scenes with building, street scenes, etc. To learn this kind of drawing, it is important to learn PERSPECTIVE DRAWING. This is where your drawings gain depth and dimension.

It is probably best if you choose which you would rather start with, Portraits/Human Form or Scenes.

I have sent you Notes with a lot of tutorials and references. You pick through and see what you want to learn.

Start With DEFINITIONS and particularly read about Tone, Tonal Quality, SHADING, and STROKES.

Improving your shading and stroke technique is something you can start on right now in your art work. It will help you to buy a Tortillon and a set of graphite pencils with different leads, like 2H, HB, B, 2B, 4B, 6B, 8B. You can get larger sets too ( 9H, 8H, 7H, 6H, 5H, 4H, 3H, 2H, H, F, F, HB, B, 2B, 3B, 4B, 5B, 6B, 7B, 8B, 9B ). No need to spend a lot of money. A small set will do you fine.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Your Tablet will work best with a program like Photoshop or Painter. Your tablet will have a stylus (like a pen). The pen has a rocker button set near the tip, and an eraser at the top. All of these are programable. For example, One of my tip settings is for Option-click, which is needed for setting your target on the Clone Tool and Healing Tool. You will also have some preset and programable buttons along the top of the tablet, or on some, on the sides. You program these for the most common things you use, like cut, copy, paste.

The tablet can be used for Digital Retouching, but it can also be used as a graphite pencil, oil paint brush, watercolor, etc. You can draw, simulate paper textures, etc, to use your tablet for painting and drawing both.

__________________________________

I have a Graphic Design Company, although it is down to just me on a limited basis now that I am crippled and disabled and cannot work much. I did a lot of digital retouching. Photos Restoration and Repair makes the most money. People have old family photos which are rapidly deteriorating and than want them digitized, repaired and restored.

I also did photo repair for Advertising firms who needed Blowout or Burnout repaired. This can be very expensive for them, becasue it takes a lot of time to do a god job. The only way to repair blowout is to literally hand paint in the missing areas, like a person's face (working from another photo), then doing some blending magic, add a bit of noise, etc.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Digital retouching can be broken in two main groups. First there is adjusting correct color balance and levels, Dynamic Range, Focus and Sharpness, etc. Second there is repairing tears, missing pieces, removing wires, changing color of a car, repairing blowout and burnout, etc.

I need to have an idea of how much you can do in Photoshop. Do you know how to use Photoshop Levels and Curves? Do you know how to adjust Dynamic Range? Do you know how to use Healing tools, Cloning tools, etc.?

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Tedd92 In reply to inspiredcreativity [2010-05-03 22:16:19 +0000 UTC]

In photohop I know how to use Levels and curves. My problem there is probably restricting myself (you wrote in one of the notes to me that beginners tend to overdo), and I guess dynamic range may be contrast or something alike? I'm fairly informed on the use of layers, burn and dodge tool, gradient tool, and... crop tool. I've been explained how the pen tool works, but I don't master it.

The rest of the functions I have no idea what is, or how they work.

The tablet, hmm, I know everything on it, it's just getting used to it first.

Now, choosing what to learn first. I'm ok on landscapes, I just need to widen the range in scapes, and items. Human anatomy is another thing. And faces. I looked at that work by ^Cedarseed , and I learned alot.

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inspiredcreativity In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-06 09:23:45 +0000 UTC]

Sorry this is so late.

QUESTION: Do you know how to use the HISTOGRAM in Photoshop's LEVELS to adjust the Photo?

Dynamic Range is not really Contrast, but it is close enough to treat it that way.

A critical Skill you will need is how to use all of the SELECTION TOOLS, QUICK MASK, and REFINE EDGE. Digital Retouching requires these tools more than anything else. Digital artists typically spend more time using selection tools than any other tools in Photoshop. The quality of your work will depend on how good you are at using these tools.

I sent you a Note with my Photoshop Tutorials. There is a Tutorial on how to avoid Blowout and Burnout while increasing Dynamic Range in an image. Displacement Maps are an amazing tool that all advanced Photoshop users know how to do. I made the mistake of explaining the theory behind it in my Tutorial. People give-up before actually doing the tutorial. You can skip the theory part and just learn the technique.

SCAPES & ITEMS

You must learn how to draw in PERSPECTIVE to do this well. I sent you Notes on how to do this already. It looks like a lot, but really, it would not take you long to go through the Perspective Lessons I sent you. Most of the words are describing how to draw lines in one lesson. It is hard to describe it in words. Most of the lessons are you just looking at pictures, to show you how to do it.

About the faces you looked at, remember that you can have excellent technique in drawing, but if you do not show character, or emotion, attitude, or story in your portrait, then you fail. Being able to show those things in a face and body is much more important than drawing technique.

Also, the faces you looked are REALISTIC drawings with a great deal of detail. It can be even more difficult to show emotion, story, etc, when you use minimal lines and detail. Many portraits use a lot less, so it is up to the artist's style.

I highly recommend using Photoshop Classroom In A Book written by the Adobe team. You can buy this in other languages I believe, and if you buy it USED, it can be very inexpensive (just make sure the CD is included).
Adobe Photoshop CS4 Classroom in a Book
Adobe Photoshop CS3 Classroom in a Book
You can GOOGLE older versions of Photoshop Classroom In A Book to find some used ones.

I used to use these just to help me catch up with all the new features each version would have, but l no longer needed to after PS 6. The book has a CD with all the files you will need to do the projects. The book has step-by-step instructions with screen shots to walk you through using various tools. It starts with very simple beginner stuff and up to advanced stuff.

Best of luck.

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Tedd92 In reply to inspiredcreativity [2010-05-06 19:17:47 +0000 UTC]

Thank you for your help so far!
I'll do those tutorials when I find a time in between school lessons or homework.

Oh, and Levels, I've discovered that the bar underneath the histogram, the one on the left controls the dark areas, the one on the right the bright, and the one in the middle what's in between.

The one further down controls the shade percentage, right?

For facial expressions, I'll just have to experiment until I find something that works. Or I can make some crazy hairball that doesn't really use expressions other than the empty one. Out of place expressions wouldn't matter much then, would probably just add to the character. Who knows?

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inspiredcreativity In reply to Tedd92 [2010-05-09 08:47:30 +0000 UTC]

Tonal Quality is based on how much of the Tonal Range (256 per Channel in an 8 bit image) is used, and on how smooth the tonal gradients are. Tonal Quality is expressed by the number of different tones used and the smoothness of tonal gradients, when used.

To get a Higher Tonal Quality, and therefore a higher quality of shading:

1. You wan Tones expressed across the entire tonal range, from White to Black.
2. You want as many different shades of gray as possible, typically across a smooth gradient (no banding).

_________________________________________________________


LESSON ON HISTOGRAMS

1. Open an image in Photoshop.

2. Go to Image > Adjustments > Levels… OR BETTER Go to Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Levels… (Curves is better but too much to explain now). You can name it or leave it as default.

3. Look at the Histogram. Under the graph is a slider bar.
- On the far left is black slider (0), representing the darkest black SHADOW.
- On the far right is a white slighter (255), representing the brightest white HIGHLIGHT.
- In the Middle is a Gray slider, representing MIDTONES.
- This graph shows the distribution of every pixel in your image, across the entire tonal range.

4. There is a separate Histogram for each channel. In an RGB image, the will be a combined Histogram, and then one for RED, one for GREEN, and one for BLUE. Where is says RGB near the top of the Histogram box, that is a pull-down menu for selecting the Channel you want.

5. An image needing Dynamic Range adjustment will typically show no pixels one or both ends of the graph (Shadows and Highlights). If you were to go into each Channel, and slide the black shadow slider to the right, from 0 until it met the point where the pixels start, then slide the white highlight slider to the left from 255 until it met the point where the pixels start, then that would be about the same as clicking on AUTO (Auto Levels).

6. Try it, click on AUTO. If you screw it all up, you can easily RESET it. Hold down the Option key. See how the Cancel button now turns into a Reset button?

7. Try moving the middle MIDTONE GRAY Slider right and left. You are now biasing the Midtones towards the shadows or highlights, without changing the Black Point or White Point you have already set with the black and white sliders.

8. There are three Eyedroppers in the Levels window, from left to right, Shadows, Midtones, Highlights. If you click on the right one for highlights and click on the lightest spot you can find in your image, that would set the White Point of the image. Click on the eyedropper on the far left and click on the darkest spot in your image will set the Black Point. The middle gray eyedropper is disable in a Grayscale image. In a color Image, you can click on a neutral (gray) spot in your image to set the midpoint. This can be very handy sometimes.

9. Next, there is the OUTPUT LEVEL Slider at the bottom of the Levels box. In a grayscale image, if your image is still too dark, for example, you could slide the black slider to the right to make it lighter. Or in a color image, if, for example, there just is not enough red in the background and overall image for you, the histogram sliders cannot help, but if you go to the Red Channel and increase the Red Output level to 25, then you would see more red throughout the image.

10. If you go into the Options button:
Enhance Per Channel Contrast is for the Auto Levels Algorithm.
Enhance Monochromatic Contrast is for the Auto Contrast Algorithm.
Find Dark & Light Colors is for the Auto Color Algorithm.
_________________________________________________________

FILE FORMATS

JPEG is a PLAGUE, avoid using it. ONLY USE JPEG when large compression is needed, such as for emailing and posting on DA. JPEG is LOSSY COMPRESSION. It throws away data every time you save it. If you open it again, edit it, and save again, it throws more away, and again the next time, degrading your image every time it is saved. NEVER Save JPEG images more than once. Do edits on your source file, then re-save as a Jpeg.

RAW, TIFF, & PNG are LOSSLESS COMPRESSION.

Store source files in PSD, RAW, TIFF, or PNG format.

*** If your camera will shoot in RAW or TIFF, use these for important shots. If your camera shoots only in JPEG, once you open an image to work on it, save it as a TIFF or PNG.

TIFF allows you to save Levels and Alpha channels (your selections). Yes, those selections you slaved away for hours on can be saved in TIFF. When you save as TIFF, you will have the option to save with LZP Compression, which is a LOSSLESS compression algorithm. TIFF is the standard for production work, Print workflows, etc.

For Internet, PNG is a good choice. Use it instead Jpeg. PNG is a LOSSLESS compression algorithm.

To save file size, DON'T post Grayscale images in RGB mode. It is a waste of space. Convert it to Grayscale unless you have color tints, duotones, or tritones, or other color effects.

_________________________________________________________

I hope this is of some use.

Matthew

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Tedd92 In reply to Puskupipi [2010-03-18 21:19:59 +0000 UTC]

my pleasure ^^, You make nice art!

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Puskupipi In reply to Tedd92 [2010-03-18 22:19:44 +0000 UTC]

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