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BricksandStones — Crusaders in Petra: extended overview
Published: 2020-03-30 18:50:16 +0000 UTC; Views: 1402; Favourites: 18; Downloads: 0
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If you read typical description of Petra today (for example in the National Geographic: www.nationalgeographic.com/tra… ) it will tell you that this marvelous ancient city gradually declined and was abandoned soon after the Islamic conquest, around 600-700 AD., only to be ‘rediscovered’ in 1812, that is more than a thousand years later, by a Swiss explorer Johann Burckhardt. One can imagine, how surprised and astounded Johann must have been, when Beduins guided him through desert canyons and when he finally saw the great façade of the ‘treasury’ building carved in the desert cliff! A forgotten city brought back to the public eye! 

Such narratives make it hard to imagine that in the medieval period the Petra valley was inhabited, and crusaders regularly travelled through its canyons. Latin settlers and knights must have seen the antique marvels of Petra many times!
 
Photos 1 and 2: the ancient facade of the 'treasury' building carved in the side of a cliff in a canyon leading to Petra 

In the 12th C., the region of Petra was part of the kingdom of Jerusalem and formed the southern part of the lordship of Transjordan. The crusaders built two castles in the area. One is called al-Ḥabīs today and is positioned on a hill directly in the center of the Petra valley. Sergeants guarding its walls could easily see most of the monuments of the ancient city, such as the carved amphitheater, the great temple, baths etc. This fortification included the main, rectangular keep, upper and lower wards as well as a small forecourt. It was a relatively small castle that, as far as we know, did not have its own chapel and it is possible that it was used only as a place of refugee during attack. All the tourists who visit Petra today can see it but barely anyone notices it, because it is not marked as an important site, there is no marked path there and only small fragments of its medieval walls survive. There are some interesting arrow loops and mason marks, but not much more.

    
Photo 3 and 4: al-Ḥabīs crusader castle - these photos are taken directly from the great temple of the city of Petra. Note the crusader arrow loop (marked with a red arrow) and the surviving vault of the crusader keep /tower. 

Plan 1: Al-Habis crusader castle

The second castle is a much larger stronghold called al-Wu’ayra. The crusader name for it was Castellum Vallis Moysis – which is just a Latin version of the name Wadi Musa (Moses’ valley) which is still used today for the nearby town. It occupies a naturally defensible position as its walls enclose a high plateau surrounded by steep desert cliffs. These cliffs are especially high on the eastern side, where the medieval gate is still preserved. The walled plateau housed a sizable community of Latin settlers, both soldiers and civilians. Preserved remains indicate that the castle who had numerous domestic buildings at their disposal as well as their own church with a preserved crypt. Archaeological excavations revealed that the church had its own graveyard where local settlers were buried. Among those buried near the church, archaeologists have identified a grave of a child, which confirms that the castle was home to civilian population – most likely settlers from the West. Below is the plan and a selection of photos showing different parts of the castle.


Plan 2: al-Wu’ayra crusader castle: Castellum Vallis Moysis

Plan 3: plan of the crusader castle chapel in al-Wu'ayra

Photo 5: the fortified gate between two cliffs protecting the crusader castle of al-Wu'ayra - note the surviving castle walls visible above the cliff, in the upper-right corner of the photo.

Photo 6: the western approach to the castle - note the carved stairs and remains of a crusader tower.
  
Photos 6 and 7: sections of surviving walls protecting the eastern and western sides of the castle Note that the second photo shows a surviving tower (this tower has a preserved guardroom inside it).
   
Photo 8 and 9 : interior of the guardroom preserved in one of the towers showing a 12th C. crusader arrow loop and a surviving doorway (the doorway is partially blocked by rubble from the upper levels of the tower)

Photo 10: heavily deteriorated fragment of a sculpture showing human face - its dating is uncertain but most likely it dates from the crusader period.

Photo 11: board for a medieval game carved on one of the rocks inside the castle. 

Photo 12: Niche in the fortified gate of the castle - most likely a religious statue of a saint was originally positioned inside that niche.
  
Photo 13 and 14: Remaining fragments of the crusader church inside the castle. First photo shows a surviving fragment of the apse while the second photo shows the southern wall of the church with entrance to the crypt (if you look carefully, you can see the medieval entrance to the crypt).

Photo 15: interior of the crypt below the crusader church inside the castle - note the surviving, 12th C. vault

Finally, it is worth mentioning that the two crusader castles in the Petra region are located fairly close - if you know the path, it takes only about 3-4 hours to walk from one castle to another. Also, the shortest path goes directly through the ancient city of Petra. So, it is easy to imagine, that those who visited these castles (including the kings of Jerusalem, like Baldwin III) as well as Latin settlers who lived there must have walked through the beautiful, mountain canyons of Petra and must have seen, more than once, the marvelous, ancient facades carved in these mountains. In the crusader period, Petra was not forgotten! 

 
Plan 4: Petra valley showing the location of the two crusader castles and of the famous 'Treasury' building visited by millions of tourists from around the world.


Photo 16: Two out of many ancient facades carved in the mountain slopes surrounding the Petra valley - this is the type of view that crusaders in al-Habis had while guarding their walls / towers.


So, this is it - an overview of crusader presence in the Petra region. Writing this and choosing images took few hours so I hope that at least someone here is interested in these type of histories If you are - thank you very much for taking the time to read this - I really appreciate it! Thumbs up! This material is not easily available online and there are good specialists in crusader studies who are not aware of these monuments in Petra. Thank you again for reading and all the best from the Middle-East - stay safe!

Related content
Comments: 30

fiyonk14 [2022-01-04 19:58:01 +0000 UTC]

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MilieLitre [2020-04-21 14:47:02 +0000 UTC]

I understand why people would be more fascinated by the ancient city than by crusader remains but it still shouldn't be erased from history. The wikipedia page for petra does mention the two castles and the crusader era, but everything stops after they get kicked out. It all feels like a very occidental centered point of view... But at least I learned a few things (form wikipedia and your article of course) !

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BricksandStones In reply to MilieLitre [2020-05-02 17:44:07 +0000 UTC]

Indeed - until few years ago the dominant narrative was that Petra was temporarily 'revived' by the crusaders but this 'revival' ended after the collapse of Latin Transjordan. Although this theory indeed sounds very 'occidental' and colonial in origin, it is not without academic basis. The main argument in favor for this theory is architecture - almost all medieval remains in the Petra valley date from the late Byzantine and from the crusader period with very little remains from the time of Islamic control (that is from both the time prior and after the crusader conquest  (one lovely, example is the 14th C. mosque built on top of the Byzantine monastery in Jabal Harun). However, archaeologists recently started to point out that architectural remains is not the only measure of prosperity and investment - the study of pottery for example, shows that there was a lot of continuity of settlement pattern and trade contacts in the Petra valley from the 10th all the way to the 14th C. - from this perspective, the crusader conquest does not seem to have had a major impact on local settlements, density of population and trade. So, it was more of a continuity than radical change. So, it all depends on which data you want to focus - architectural remains point to Latin investment and 'revival' while pottery points to continuity.... If you want, I can email you an article about it (just sent me a private message with your email and I will sent it to you). Thank you very much again - it is a pleasure to know that you find this type of stories and sites interesting All the best from the Middle-East!

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MilieLitre In reply to BricksandStones [2020-06-03 18:53:56 +0000 UTC]

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tsahel [2020-04-11 18:47:13 +0000 UTC]

thank you so much for all these info. It's so interresting, so inspiring too. 

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BricksandStones In reply to tsahel [2020-05-02 17:45:50 +0000 UTC]

It is my pleasure - thank you very, very much for taking the time to view this! I am glad you find this type of stories and sites interesting Also, I am very sorry for taking so long to reply - with my wife, we recently adopted a puppy and taking care of her turned out to be much more time consuming than I expected - as a result, I rarely had a moment to visit DA..... Thank you very much again and all the best from the Middle East!

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skarzynscy [2020-03-31 15:36:14 +0000 UTC]

Bardzo ciekawe (tyle, ze musiałem posłużyć się  google-tłumaczem... No cóż tuman to tuman... Gratulacje i pozdrowienia z Krakowa!

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BricksandStones In reply to skarzynscy [2020-04-01 15:48:54 +0000 UTC]

Bardzo mi miło, że to Pana zainteresowało - dziękuję, że poświęcił Pan czas aby przeczytać ten post! Napisanie go i dobór zdjęć zajął mi parę godzin (niestety, nie pracuję zbyt szybko) więc jest mi szczególnie miło, że ktoś to przeczytał i te godziny to nie był zupełnei zmarnowany czas Tak naprawdę cały tekst sprowadza się do opisu dwóch zamków krzyżowców, które zostały zbudowane w XII wieku w rejonie Petry. Mniejszy, al-Habis, jest zlokalizowany bezpośrednio w dolinie Petry, zaledwie kilkaset metrów od antycznych ruin. Drugi, który jest większy i nazywa się al-Wu'ayara  jest jakieś 3 godziny drogi piechotą od antycznego miasta. Mówiąc szczerze, ja nie mam zupełnie talentu do języków - zajmując się krucjatami, naprawdę powinienem umieć czytać łacinę (do średniowieczych dokumentów), francuski (ponieważ wiele ważnych opracowań historii krucjat jest po francusku) oraz niemiecki (ponieważ najważniejsze prace o krzyżakach są po niemiecku). Nie znam żadnego z tych trzech języków więc pozostaje mi archeologia Dziękuję jeszcze raz i pozdrawiam - wszystkiego dobrego, dużo zdrowia!

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skarzynscy In reply to BricksandStones [2020-04-01 16:54:56 +0000 UTC]

Tym razem to JA GORĄCO DZIĘKUJĘ i zazdroszczę pasji oraz podroży!


Pozdrawiam i życzę tez dużo zdrowia, bo dopiero teraz się czuje, jak ono jest ważne!

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Hermetic-Wings [2020-03-31 13:14:04 +0000 UTC]

I was expecting your journal dear freind. I read it as soon as I saw it....How I wish to go and visit those places as you did. Because I am getting older and older, I am not sure if I can find a chance to visit Petra. Be sure that I will contact you if I can plan to go there. I must learn many details before I go. The infos that I can take from you would easy my trip and I can focuse just the crusaders and ancient Petra civilisations...
Thanks for taking me to my dreamland, thanks for sharing such beautiful and informatic journal dear friend
Stay safe

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BricksandStones In reply to Hermetic-Wings [2020-03-31 17:27:03 +0000 UTC]

You are very kind- thank you very much for showing interest in this journal and in the history it describes - thanks to this I know that writing it was not a waste of time Thank you again! I sincerely hope you will manage to visit not only Petra but also many other interesting sites that you want! When you will be in Petra, make sure to reserve at least 3-4 days to explore the area - I only had two and I did not manage to see everything.  For example, I did not even try to make the journey to Jabal Harun (it is a burial site of prophet Aaron - there was a Byzantine monastery there and today, there is a 14th C., Mamluk mosque on its place). I have been told that the journey is beautiful but, alas, I lacked the time to take it! Anyway, thank you very much once again - if you will require any assistance or additional advice regarding the journey to Petra or other sites in Jordan, let me know, I will try to help the best I can (though of course, I have only been to Jordan once so my experience is limited....). All the best once again, I hope you and those dear to you will stay safe and healthy in these difficult times.... Cheers!

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Hermetic-Wings In reply to BricksandStones [2020-04-01 23:16:19 +0000 UTC]

Thanks for every each of the words you sent about Petra and it's so usefullll. I know you visited it once but you are a carefull person and I will be aware with your warnings...Be sure that I will contact with you if "I can manage a visit to that wonderful city " that you transfer very wonderfully on your neat photographs 

Please have a nice day, and stay safe

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HelevornArt [2020-03-31 07:32:03 +0000 UTC]

Fascinating! Both the information, the photos and the place itself Thank you for putting this together!

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BricksandStones In reply to HelevornArt [2020-03-31 17:28:59 +0000 UTC]

My pleasure - I am very glad you like it! Thank you very much for taking the time to read this longish post - it is a reassurance for me that writing it was not a waste of time Thank you again and all the best - stay safe!

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AlberichPotter [2020-03-31 06:42:17 +0000 UTC]

Wonderful journal about a place that was always near the top of my "wish list" but to where I never got round to going. Thanks to your account and photographs I now know so much more about it!  

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BricksandStones In reply to AlberichPotter [2020-04-01 15:42:45 +0000 UTC]

My pleasure - thank you very much for viewing! I hope you will get a chance to visit Petra and other sites that interest you The virus will eventually stop spreading and we will have to try to return to 'normalcy' (though of course I understand that the economic repercussions of the pandemy will be severe....). Either way, we can still hope that eventually even the economy will stabilize.... Thank you again for the comment and all the best from Israel - stay safe!

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CaptFox [2020-03-31 04:31:37 +0000 UTC]

This is fascinating stuff. I had the privilege  to visit Petra many years ago. A great place to see.

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BricksandStones In reply to CaptFox [2020-04-01 15:14:21 +0000 UTC]

I am glad you like Petra - the fame of this place is well deserved Thank you very much for taking the time to read this post - I appreciate it! All the best - stay safe in these difficult times!

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JezMiller [2020-03-30 20:41:31 +0000 UTC]

This is fascinating. I shared the common view of Petra - abandoned for centuries. I didn't have the faintest idea that it had been occupied during the Crusade era. Is there any evidence that the settlers explored the ancient site? It must have caught their interest.

Who was the lord of Castellum Vallis Moysis? Was it the stronghold of a local lord? A royal castle? The design looks fairly primitive as Crusader castles go - an old-style square keep, without the innovations developed by the military orders.

The plans were very useful. The surviving ruins don't really give a sense of the scale or design. Thanks!

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BricksandStones In reply to JezMiller [2020-04-01 13:15:00 +0000 UTC]

Thank you very much for showing interest! The castle is mentioned in only few documents so modern knowledge about it is rather sketchy. We know that it was commanded by a castellan who was appointed by the lord of Transjordan. We know that at some point this position was held by a knight named Ulric, who was also a viscount of Nablus. His name indicates that he was certainly a Latin, Western knight but it is not clear whether he resided in Vallis Moysis on regular basis.  Documents mention that except for Kerak, Montreal and Castellum Vallis Moysis, the lordship of Transjordan had 5 other castles. However, we do not know their names because the document does not provide them, the text just provides the number of castles without giving their names. Scholars have offered various interpretations where these castles may have been located (one is naturally al-Habis).  

The reason I am writing this is to show you that there are very few contemporary documents relating to Transjordan and those few that exist, mostly relate to the two main castles in the lordship - that is Kerak and Montreal (Shobak). Because of this, we do not have descriptions of Petra itself but, there is archaeological evidence of crusader presence in the city.  The most common is pottery - mostly imports from crusader ports in Acre or St Simeon near Antioch. There are specific types / forms of pottery which are associated with crusader settlement and these pots are present in Petra. Also, there are some crusader period cemeteries which yield small finds of artifacts manufactured in Acre. Please, sent me your email by note and I will email you the article about crusader presence in Petra!  Lastly, I might add that crusaders knew that Petra was a bishopric in the Byzantine period and the Latin bishop of Kerak took the title of the bishop of Petra as well - so they were aware that Petra was a prominent city in the Byzantine empire and were familiar with the name - Petra. Sorry for longish and a bit chaotic answer - I am very glad that you find such histories interesting - thank you again and all the best!   

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Arte-de-Junqueiro [2020-03-30 19:38:52 +0000 UTC]

We are blessed that you have had the good fortune to both visit these sites and the time and energies to gather the information, maps and photographs....
We are also blessed to have the good fortune that you are happy to share these findings with all of us!! Not much chance of me actually visiting that location - pretty well zero chance of being able to follow in your footsteps through these fortifications etc... So - being able to "share" your work is just fabulous and I do thank you so much!!

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BricksandStones In reply to Arte-de-Junqueiro [2020-04-01 12:45:51 +0000 UTC]

You are very kind! Honestly, thank you very much for your positive feedback and support - it is a pleasure for me to see that you are interested in medieval heritage and that the time I spent writing such posts is not wasted! I hope this pandemic will ease at least a bit in the next few weeks (months?) and we will all be able to go out again and enjoy the beauty of historic and natural sites around us - whether in Israel or in Portugal Thank you very much again - I wish you all the best and I hope that you and those dear to you will stay safe in these difficult times! Cheers!

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FougereMarchant [2020-03-30 19:26:28 +0000 UTC]

Wow, what a great overview! It does seem more than likely that the crusaders knew Petra, but then like many things, that knowledge got lost (to us, not to others).

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BricksandStones In reply to FougereMarchant [2020-03-31 18:43:37 +0000 UTC]

Indeed! Naturally, Muslim authorities also knew about it, at least until the late 13th C. - probably later. The church knew about its name, because in the Byzantine period there was a bishopric established there - the diocese of Petra is mentioned in many documents afterwards. So, people knew about the bishopric of Petra, but they forgot that the site includes a marvelous monuments of ancient art and architecture. In this sense, the site was really rediscovered to European academia.... Still, I quite like the image of Latin pilgrims / crusaders riding through the canyons of Petra - maybe one they a talented artist will pain a scene like this   Thank you very much for taking the time to read this - I really appreciate it! All the best from a small village in Israel !

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FougereMarchant In reply to BricksandStones [2020-03-31 19:55:00 +0000 UTC]

Thanks! I always enjoy your postings. There are lots of old church documents that decribe things we have (or had) forgotten for a long time.

Be safe in Israel! I am ok here in Ottawa Canada.

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Malintra-Shadowmoon [2020-03-30 19:20:25 +0000 UTC]

That really is a great work of photojournalism.

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BricksandStones In reply to Malintra-Shadowmoon [2020-03-31 20:21:43 +0000 UTC]

You are very kind - I am very glad you like it Thank you very much and all the best - stay safe!

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Malintra-Shadowmoon In reply to BricksandStones [2020-04-01 18:53:03 +0000 UTC]

You are very welcome. Stay safe, too

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akitku [2020-03-30 19:00:40 +0000 UTC]

Fascinating stuff. Thanks so much for this long and detailed description. I will be returning to this post many times for reference. 

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BricksandStones In reply to akitku [2020-04-01 12:40:45 +0000 UTC]

I am so glad you like it! It is a pleasure to know that it can be of some use to you in the future Thank you very much for taking the time to read it - all the best!

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