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ColeV — Linen Stays

Published: 2008-04-06 02:08:14 +0000 UTC; Views: 2528; Favourites: 27; Downloads: 57
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Description 18th century linen full-boned stays with hand stitched channels. Bound and laced with linen tape. I used flat reeds for the boning to cut down on weight and make it more accurate (can't find baleen these days!). There are four layers of linen: face, two for support, and a loose lining. Pattern in Costume Close-up. My first attempt at 18th century clothing. The shift is also made from linen and hand stitched.
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Comments: 14

Danielle-Snow [2009-11-10 04:39:58 +0000 UTC]

Absolutely beautiful.

Mightn't I ask what you used for a pattern, or did you make it yourself?
I'm a beginning reenactor, and I'd like to try and finish a pair of stays before next summer.

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ColeV In reply to Danielle-Snow [2009-11-10 17:07:04 +0000 UTC]

I used the shape of the pair in Costume Close-Up (it doesn't fit me very well, just to note, I'm going to rip it apart and fix it soon). I know JP Ryan has a very popular pattern based off a similar pair. Just make sure you plan on making alterations to the paper pattern to make it your own, no two different people can fit into the same pair of stays properly!

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Danielle-Snow In reply to ColeV [2009-11-12 18:32:16 +0000 UTC]

Thank you!

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KingAndrewI [2009-06-11 01:40:15 +0000 UTC]

When you scaled up the pattern, did you have any major size discrepancies? Because when made an exact mockup, the two back pieces overlapped at the top of my back. A lot. I tried making the seam allowances a lot smaller on the front four pieces because they are straighter and easier to change, but the shapes of the pieces kind of got lost. I'm guessing this may be because I scaled up the pattern too big, but when I cut it out the pieces looked the right size. Of course, this could come back the fact that I'm a guy so they don't fit me like they would a woman...

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ColeV In reply to KingAndrewI [2009-06-14 20:11:54 +0000 UTC]

I don't think I had any major issues, but I did do a lot of altering (none of which I remember specifically). If it's overlapping in back, you should check the side seams to make sure they fall correctly. It probably is an issue of the extra space in front. If I remember right, there are 4 pieces that make up the front triangle. The two side pieces aren't always used in patterns I've seen, so maybe removing those would help? Front points (where the top line angles) should hit the tendon in front of your armpit and the back points should hit the dent in your shoulder blade (when standing correctly).

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KingAndrewI In reply to ColeV [2009-06-14 21:26:31 +0000 UTC]

Thanks so much, I'll give that a try!

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janey-jane [2008-08-05 15:53:34 +0000 UTC]

I'm so glad there are more people reproducing hand-sewn stays. these are just beautiful. The color of the linen is really nice and they seem to fit well.

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WisdomsPearl [2008-07-01 08:24:53 +0000 UTC]

Wow, this is beautifully done! How many bones are in it? I've been wondering this for awhile because me and a friend will be getting into rev war reenactment and we've been doing a lot of research on how to make them...

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ColeV In reply to WisdomsPearl [2008-07-01 21:50:45 +0000 UTC]

I used 122 pieces of reed, but some of them are very tiny. Even with a fully boned pair you wouldn't need to fill in some of the gaps that I did. Especially if you aren't using something light weight for the boning. When we make stays at work (just finished a pair to fit today actually) we do half-boned with straps and use spiral and steel bones. There are way fewer in that. If you need any advice on doing them by machine or by hand, just ask! If I don't know, I know people who would!

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WisdomsPearl In reply to ColeV [2008-07-01 22:41:16 +0000 UTC]

Wow, that's amazing. Do you get the bones at stores by bulk or do you buy them over the web?

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ColeV In reply to WisdomsPearl [2008-07-02 01:01:35 +0000 UTC]

I buy almost everything over the internet. Even in Williamsburg, there's only one supply store, and it's really a couples home. I have heard good things about Silly Sisters website for reeds and leather binding. Farthingales LA has good steel pieces and other modern corsetry. For general historic supplies I love WM Booth Draper. At work, things just appear so I have no clue where we order from. Check out the RevList of merchants online as well.

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WisdomsPearl In reply to ColeV [2008-07-02 02:31:07 +0000 UTC]

Thank you so much

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Stahlrose [2008-06-01 20:10:58 +0000 UTC]

My complimets as well .. I do handstitching sometimes as well but my first try on stays was disastrous so I finished them on the machine

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Janes-Wardrobe [2008-04-13 10:26:23 +0000 UTC]

These are beautiful.

Hand stitched? You're mad lady, welcome to the club!

There are a few of us who do extreme sewing like this!

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