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48.) Get some Magic Sculpt Epoxy clay and mix it up 50/50 until it is uniform in colour. I like to use brown, because if you scuff it... it's STILL brown!!! Remove all cardboard carding from the face.

49.) Putty up the lower lip anywhere you see fit. Fill in any holes, and blend all seams/crevices.

50.) Texture the lip. I tend to make a series of lumps and dimples. Take a washcloth and press it to the wet Sculpt to get a nice texture, then you can make various imprints with a knife or toothpick to make those lip creases.

51.) Putty up the upper lip.

52.) Repeat your textures. Be sure to clean off all the teeth so they are free of Sculpt. The Magic Sculpt will cure in about an hour (2 if you mixed it funny)

53.) Putty any holes in the nose and inside the nostrils. When this dries it will give the nose a nice rigid structure.

54.) With your airbrush (or if you are good with a paintbrush) and acrylic/latex paints; mist the lower lip with a brown, and then haze it with black. The brown will be an undertone, and show vibrantly after a coat of gloss is applied.

55.) Do the same with the nose. Dark brown with a mist of black. If you want you could make the deepest part of the nose pink-ish. Each wolf is different.

56.) With a Jet Black, mist the eyes.

NOTE: Overspray is OK! It rubs out of the fur.

57.) Mist the inside of the ears with a light brown or dark brown. It's optional to make the deepest part of the ear slightly pink.

58.) Overall, this is what your wolf will look like. Scary goth wolf.

59.) While the paint dries, you can apply a nice inlay of foam, leather, or whatever to pad the inside dome of the "helmet"

60.) Mist your tongue down the center with a rich brown. This tones down the factory-made hot-pink look of the plastic tongue. Adds a slight bit of realism and highlights the high points of the tongue lumps.

61.) With a clear vulcanizing rubber cement (Taxidermists use Jaw Juice, but the common brand would be Shoe Goo, found in the shoe department to glue in soles) Spread a generous amount to the bottom of the tongue.

62.) Carefully lay the tongue inside the mouth and leave it to dry. Jaw Juice dries a shiny clear, so it can also be used to fabricate fake drool.

63.) When your paint is dry, start scraping the paint off the glass of the eyes. Be very careful around the rims so you don't scratch the paint off the skin/leather.

64.) Photo of the eyes cleared. Still looks like an overly make-up'ed wolf.

65.) Photo of half the face cleaned up. Clean up the fur by rubbing the hair with a piece of felt or suede. Those fabrics grab paint really well and will easily buff the paint from the hair.

66.) A fully cleaned wolf. After the paint is cleared from the fur, you can apply a spray GLOSS to the nose, in th mouth, and around the rims of the eyes to add a shiny lifelike glisten to those areas.

67.) a.b.c. )) Jet-puff your wolf with a hairdryer, preen the fur to how you like, and you are ready to display it, show it off, or whatever you wish!!!

I hope you have Enjoyed this Tutorial. Any questions you have on loop holes, missing info or how things are done, feel free to ask!
__________________________________
Disclaimer: I did not hunt this wolf. It came to me already tanned from a fellow taxidermist (who didn't hunt it either). I bought it from him and am building this costume/rug for a friend of mine. This wolf came from Canada (NOT Alaska) and was imported with all Federally Legal paperwork!
Therefore the skin was not from a poached animal. All of my skins are legally obtained from taxidermy facilities or licensed hunters I speak with personally.

SO DON'T LEAVE MEAN COMMENTS!

For God's Sake! Only STUPID people leave comments on things they Hate!!!!

For all you who love learning the art of taxidermy...
ENJOY!

Description
48.) Get some Magic Sculpt Epoxy clay and mix it up 50/50 until it is uniform in colour. I like to use brown, because if you scuff it... it's STILL brown!!! Remove all cardboard carding from the face.

49.) Putty up the lower lip anywhere you see fit. Fill in any holes, and blend all seams/crevices.

50.) Texture the lip. I tend to make a series of lumps and dimples. Take a washcloth and press it to the wet Sculpt to get a nice texture, then you can make various imprints with a knife or toothpick to make those lip creases.

51.) Putty up the upper lip.

52.) Repeat your textures. Be sure to clean off all the teeth so they are free of Sculpt. The Magic Sculpt will cure in about an hour (2 if you mixed it funny)

53.) Putty any holes in the nose and inside the nostrils. When this dries it will give the nose a nice rigid structure.

54.) With your airbrush (or if you are good with a paintbrush) and acrylic/latex paints; mist the lower lip with a brown, and then haze it with black. The brown will be an undertone, and show vibrantly after a coat of gloss is applied.

55.) Do the same with the nose. Dark brown with a mist of black. If you want you could make the deepest part of the nose pink-ish. Each wolf is different.

56.) With a Jet Black, mist the eyes.

NOTE: Overspray is OK! It rubs out of the fur.

57.) Mist the inside of the ears with a light brown or dark brown. It's optional to make the deepest part of the ear slightly pink.

58.) Overall, this is what your wolf will look like. Scary goth wolf.

59.) While the paint dries, you can apply a nice inlay of foam, leather, or whatever to pad the inside dome of the "helmet"

60.) Mist your tongue down the center with a rich brown. This tones down the factory-made hot-pink look of the plastic tongue. Adds a slight bit of realism and highlights the high points of the tongue lumps.

61.) With a clear vulcanizing rubber cement (Taxidermists use Jaw Juice, but the common brand would be Shoe Goo, found in the shoe department to glue in soles) Spread a generous amount to the bottom of the tongue.

62.) Carefully lay the tongue inside the mouth and leave it to dry. Jaw Juice dries a shiny clear, so it can also be used to fabricate fake drool.

63.) When your paint is dry, start scraping the paint off the glass of the eyes. Be very careful around the rims so you don't scratch the paint off the skin/leather.

64.) Photo of the eyes cleared. Still looks like an overly make-up'ed wolf.

65.) Photo of half the face cleaned up. Clean up the fur by rubbing the hair with a piece of felt or suede. Those fabrics grab paint really well and will easily buff the paint from the hair.

66.) A fully cleaned wolf. After the paint is cleared from the fur, you can apply a spray GLOSS to the nose, in th mouth, and around the rims of the eyes to add a shiny lifelike glisten to those areas.

67.) a.b.c. )) Jet-puff your wolf with a hairdryer, preen the fur to how you like, and you are ready to display it, show it off, or whatever you wish!!!

I hope you have Enjoyed this Tutorial. Any questions you have on loop holes, missing info or how things are done, feel free to ask!
__________________________________
Disclaimer: I did not hunt this wolf. It came to me already tanned from a fellow taxidermist (who didn't hunt it either). I bought it from him and am building this costume/rug for a friend of mine. This wolf came from Canada (NOT Alaska) and was imported with all Federally Legal paperwork!
Therefore the skin was not from a poached animal. All of my skins are legally obtained from taxidermy facilities or licensed hunters I speak with personally.

SO DON'T LEAVE MEAN COMMENTS!

For God's Sake! Only STUPID people leave comments on things they Hate!!!!

For all you who love learning the art of taxidermy...
ENJOY!