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Adylith — Elizabethan Middle Class

Published: 2006-03-14 03:42:12 +0000 UTC; Views: 1321; Favourites: 8; Downloads: 24
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Description This is a costume I made for personal use and for my costume history project. It is a representation of what a middle class Elizabethan woman in about 1570 might have worn. There are 4 pieces overall: chemise, effigy-style corset, kirtle and gown. The sleeves are reversable. There are a heck of a lot of hand-bound eyelets in this outfit, along with various other hand sewn things. I don't even want to consider how many hours went into making it, but I'm sure nearly $100 did.

All in all, I'm very proud and think I look quite dashing! Feel free to ask more detailed questions.
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Comments: 23

LadyJamie [2008-03-18 02:08:30 +0000 UTC]

I really love the shoulder rolls, and the detail you've put into this. You don't often see middle class and I really appreciate the look. It's very lovely on you.

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Adylith In reply to LadyJamie [2008-04-16 00:01:58 +0000 UTC]

Thank you! I'm sorry I've taken so long to reply, but between moving and such, I've been backed up on things.

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MistressKristin [2006-03-15 20:19:16 +0000 UTC]

Very cute outfit! I love it! What kinds of fabrics did you use? Looks very nice!!!

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Adylith In reply to MistressKristin [2006-03-16 03:46:53 +0000 UTC]

Thanks! I used mostly cottons, though the green fabric is wool and the dark blue is a linen blend.

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MistressKristin In reply to Adylith [2006-03-16 04:26:18 +0000 UTC]

Very cool!!! It's very nicely done!

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Linhorra [2006-03-15 00:48:21 +0000 UTC]

Hook and eye tape? I've never even heard of that but it must be useful, sewing them individually is rather annoying.
The gown is beautiful! I like that color green.
And as for the spending $100 on it - that's what I call dedication!

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Adylith In reply to Linhorra [2006-03-15 02:18:12 +0000 UTC]

Yes, I was not about to sew 13 pairs of hooks and eyes. The tape, though more flimsy, is worth the trade off. You can get it online from various places, but I found a cheaper version in a local little fabric shop.

I'm glad you like it! And $100 total cost is nothing in the costume world....

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ladyrose04 [2006-03-14 19:53:11 +0000 UTC]

Ooh very nice. Is it wool? Way to go on the handbound eyelets, I don't have the patience. I really like the contrasting guard and shoulder rolls. Does the front close with hooks and eyes? Which patterns did you use for the effigy corset and kirtle?

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Adylith In reply to ladyrose04 [2006-03-15 00:31:14 +0000 UTC]

The green is wool, the tan is cotton twill. The front does close with hook and eye tape (incidentally the most impossible thing EVER to find). I technically didn't use patterns for any of it, I drafted my own using several resources, most notably Drea Leed's Elizabethan Costuming Page and sempstress.org, both of which are fabulous resources. Featured Attyre was also an immeasurable resource.

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ladyrose04 In reply to Adylith [2006-03-16 00:37:58 +0000 UTC]

I can find hook and eye tape, but I just don't want to pay the $20+/yd that it seems to cost around here. I was wondering if the kirtle was from Drea's site. I used her pattern to create my burgundy kirtle, which has served me quite well. If you haven't seen it Melissa's (Sempstress)instructions for a side-front corset are also worth checking out. That was one of my new projects and I adore the way it turned out. (You don't need to be double jointed to lace it and you get to wear a busk which rocks in my book). Pssst! Send the gown in to Featured Attyre. I bet she'd love to get more middle class stuff in. Oh, I forgot to ask, are you wearing it with any sort of farthingale or corded petticoat? A corded petticoat might be a nice addition if the gown comes out in warmer weather. With all the cool stuff people are making right now I need to get cracking on my Elizabethans for this year. It really looks great.

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Adylith In reply to ladyrose04 [2006-03-16 03:49:13 +0000 UTC]

I'm not wearing any kind of support garment, I just have padded pleats on both the gown and kirtle (as per Sempstress' recommendations). This project was for a class, and thus was made completely in 10 weeks, and so I didn't have time to make a corded petticoat as I would have liked. It's also going to be worn at summer faires, not winter ones, so all those layers may suffocate me in the end!

I thought about sending it in to Featured Attyre.... but then saw this week's feature! It's a noble version of my gown.... just different colors and pretty much puts mine to shame. But in my defense, I'm a novice, and this is my first attempt at pattern drafting and trying to do things historically. I've never even made a bodice before, just skirts! Maybe ifI get the gumption I'll send it in....

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ladyrose04 In reply to Adylith [2006-03-16 19:38:27 +0000 UTC]

How heavy is the wool? You should be alright if it is a light-med weight. Also a corded petticoat or a farthingale will help a lot with the heat by letting air in by your legs. The detachable sleeves really do make a big difference too. What is the weather typically like during your fest season?
Wait? She updated? *goes to check* It doesn't matter if you are a novice or not, it still is a nice dress. Besides, the current feature is a nobles gown, just because yours isn't as shiny it doesn't mean it is any less worthy of a feature. You really have done a nice job way to go on the first attempt at historic costuming. Careful, it gets addicting.

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Adylith In reply to ladyrose04 [2006-03-17 04:53:56 +0000 UTC]

It's a medium-lightweight wool, but more importantly, I don't want to outdo my guildmistress! She's only a baroness, and I'm several people below her, so we'll have to see. Maybe I'll make one to wear at faires I just play at. The weather at my faire is..... completely unpredictable. It can either rain and be muddy or be swealtering. But I do visit some other faires with no shade, loads of dust and over 90 degree heat. RIght now I'm just a tad burnt out on costuming, so I'll just have to wait and see how much momentum I get back.

I'll think about submitting the costume. And yes, it is addicting! I'm a perfectionist, which doesn't help. I end up wanting to try and again and again to make it perfect....

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ladyrose04 In reply to Adylith [2006-03-17 05:16:46 +0000 UTC]

Pshaw! She needs someone to keep her on her toes and keep her motivated. Just because she got to be guildmistress doesn't mean that she is necessarially going to be the best seamstress. That sounds like my faire's weather. Maybe make a warmer weather version out of linen? I do understand being burnt out, which is one of the reasons why my current project is going at a snails pace. Hopefully we'll both get some momentum back.

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Adylith In reply to ladyrose04 [2006-03-17 06:02:28 +0000 UTC]

The thing with linen..... it's so expensive! I'm a college student. I.E...... no money! The only reason I afforded the wool was that my parents and Christmas money funded it. Though I did just accidentally buy 6 yards of a teal wool for $25.... Costuming is so addicting!

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ladyrose04 In reply to Adylith [2006-03-18 01:08:35 +0000 UTC]

I've gotten nice linen on [link] before and they are pretty affordable. Just a thought.

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dewdropfirefly [2006-03-14 19:40:29 +0000 UTC]

it looks absolutely awesome. congratulations on a wonderful job! i want to see it when i come home after graduation! ^_^

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Swatch-of-Nika [2006-03-14 12:23:28 +0000 UTC]

What's an eyelet? Is it a button hole?

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Adylith In reply to Swatch-of-Nika [2006-03-15 00:28:31 +0000 UTC]

An eyelet is similar to a buttonhole.... but it is round, not oval. Also, the thread completely covers the circle around the hole. Eyelets are also much smaller. If you know what a grommet is, think that.... but with thread and not metal.

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Shadow-blade-knight [2006-03-14 03:48:38 +0000 UTC]

ahhhh looks awesome

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Shadow-blade-knight [2006-03-14 03:48:32 +0000 UTC]

ahhhh looks awesome

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Shadow-blade-knight [2006-03-14 03:48:22 +0000 UTC]

ahhhh looks awesome

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Adylith In reply to Shadow-blade-knight [2006-03-15 00:27:27 +0000 UTC]

Thanks!

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