HOME | DD
AtsusaKaneytza — Full Shading Tutorial
#coloring #coloringtutorial #tutorial #firealpaca #atsusakaneytza
Published: 2014-11-05 10:22:56 +0000 UTC; Views: 25480; Favourites: 637; Downloads: 189
Redirect to original
Description
I figured I should update my coloring tutorial especially since I've learned a few things since the last one I made. This one is more FireAlpaca and/or general art software oriented (especially towards programs that support clipping and layer groups) Featuring Nora from RWBY!EDIT 11/05/14: I'm SUPER sorry about all the grammatical errors and will fix them once I've gotten some rest @_@ I made this tutorial whilst sleep deprived
Related content
Comments: 54
Hi, this tut looks really amazing and I would like to try it. I'm just wondering something though, since FireAlpaca and Medibang are quite similar since they were made by the same developers, would this method also work on Medibang?
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
How would we merge the layers together with them having different settings? or is the last step covering that?
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
What do you mean
could you maybe rephrase your question or go into more detail
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
AMAZING Now i know how to shade and make it look like its an Actual shading XD
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
this is really helpful! thank you so much for making this!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
What pen size and type of pen do you use for lineart? I can't seem to find the right one yet. If you have time, could you please send the information or anything?
Thank you so much in advance
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
I use the default pen, pencil, and I made a "fine pencil" that's just a default pencil that can get really thin as you draw.
I usually use them at around 5-10 pixels is what I stick with for my lineart.
And this is a dumb rule of mine, but I always use a pen that's proportional to the size of my canvas. So like, if I have a canvas that's 1600 pixels wide or something, my pen will be around 8 pixels (because half of 16 is 8) and you can fudge the pen size as needed if you're not happy with it. It's harder to do when your canvas size gets smaller and all that.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Thank you! This helped a ton.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
What color you pic depends, but I'd say for this tutorial that black or medium gray will work. You can colorize it later for different effects on your art
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Not bad, not bad. As someone who's using Firealpaca to just ink, this comes in handy for doing so much more.
Do these coloring/shading tips work in other programs, i.e. Sai or Photoshop?
Also, do you lock any of the layers?
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Yes, this method can work in SAI or Photoshop as well.
The only layer locking I usually do tends to be locking the transparency ("Protect Alpha")
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
wow, and to think i do the shading over the color (by grabbing any color and make it a few shades darker and some lighter and saving them as 4-5 separate colors)... mostly because i work with paint instead of any other tool.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
I mean that works well too! There's nothing wrong with that method of shading. Everyone has something that works well for them when it comes to art.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
This is a great tutorial. It shall come in handy!
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Thank you. Happy painting!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
This is a good tutorial. 
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
MedibangPaint Pro (formerly CloudAlpaca) is more for drawing Black and White style manga, and is equipped with way more features like screen tones and cloud storage for collaborating with other users to do so. It's basically like a free, and more simplified version of Manga Studio/Clip Studio Paint.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
This is helping me a load! The only thing that I ask, however, is which brush do you use? It looked nice when you were doing the ink part, and all of the brushes I try to use look off.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
There are some default brushes that FireAlpaca comes with, like the "Airbrush." Some of my presets are here: atsusakaneytza.deviantart.com/…
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Oh, alright! Thank you! The brushes are also very nice, I might try them out soon.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
No problem. Hope you find it useful!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
This is really good, I'm gonna try it out with my stuff too. I dig how you're making stuff that's pretty much applicable regardless of what program you choose.
Just a nitpick: I sorta felt like the contrast with Step 4 could have been more obvious to show the contact points. That's just me though, some people might think otherwise.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Thanks for the advice, the difference isn't very noticeable, haha
I'm glad its useful! ;w;
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Glad it was of some help, thanks for giving it a look!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
I noticed you mentioned my tut in one of your recent artworks. Thank you, and I'm glad you found it useful!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
I'm glad you found it useful!
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
This is super helpful! Also, that's such a good Nora.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Thank you! I'm glad it was of help. c:
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
| Next =>