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KarenBJD — Doll hoodies tutorial Part 1
Published: 2010-09-21 15:49:12 +0000 UTC; Views: 28747; Favourites: 527; Downloads: 265
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Part 2: [link]Part 3: [link]
Part 4: [link]
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Comments: 13
Thank you for this tutorial! It really helped! Most of the other tutorials I looked up sucked....
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I like the way u done . Really good. I will try to make for my doll
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God, I have to thank you SO MUCH for this tutorial! I'm making a Jack Frost doll for a friend's birthday, and this was exactly what I needed. It was so easy to follow, and it mad the process so much less intimidating. Thank you!!
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Gotta thank you for this. I tend to get intimidated when there's too many pieces in a pattern, but yours makes it easy enough for me to follow. Thanks!
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Awesome tutorial!!! Really, it helped me a lot. Thank you, thank you very much!!! ^^
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yeah more bjd clothing tutorials! Glad i found it, I already see something different I want to try...
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I learned to sew this sort of stretchy fabric back in the '70's when they first started making those overcast-type sewing machines available for the average home seamstress. The rule of thumb was to always figure the length of the opening (neck, cuff, bottom of the sweatshirt) and make the cuff/trim 3/4ths the size of the opening it's meant to finish.
You don't really have to measure or use math to do this, just fold the opening into fourths, pin at those four points where the folds happen, and then lay your cuff piece against the pinned opening and trim it so it's only 3/4th the length of the opening. Another way to say this is if you pin the beginning of the cuff to the fabric with the first pin and drape it around the opening, the cuff/trim should come up short at the next-to-last pin, not make it the whole way around. I always make my first pin front and centre on a neck opening so I can keep track of it and make sure the cuff seam doesn't end up in the front. Centre back or one of the shoulder seams is fine. It wouldn't matter on a hoodie since the front's split with a zipper.
Doing this (making it only 3/4 the length) means you'll need to stretch it as you sew them together but it also makes the cuff snug.
Once you've worked out the proper length of the trim piece, fold it in 4ths too, put pins in the four points and match the two sets of pins up and pin together, making sure the cuff/trim seam doesn't end up somewhere ugly. Then you gently stretch the cuff material as you sew it to the main piece. Once you match up the four pins you should get your pins out and use lots and lots of them to pin the whole thing together. The more pins you use to 'ease' the larger opening into the smaller cuff, the more easily the whole thing goes together once you sew it on a machine or blanket stitch it by hand. Less chances you'll accidentally sew over a fold or pinch too.
This will give all your stretchy garments a neat, professional look, just like the tee shirts, hoodies and yoga pants you see for sale in the stores, your cuffs will be a wee bit smaller than the openings they trim and will hold the openings neatly closed.
The 3/4 rule applies to putting elastic on panty tops and when you need to put a piece of elastic inside a casing at the top of a pair of stretchy pants like yoga pants or an elastic topped skirt. The elastic should be 3/4 the length of the circumference of the pants/panty/skirt top.
The more you know! (rainbow effect!)
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This tutorial is nicely put together, and the final result is amazing.
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I am silly and forgot to tell you I featured this here: [link] !
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So cute! Thank you so much for posting this tutorial! I can't wait to try it on my doll when he arrives!
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This is the only doll clothes tutorial in all of deviantart! Thank you for doing it, could you make more please!
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that's adorable. i may have to make one for my teddy bear (yes i still have him XD)
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