Comments: 19
maxxev [2014-07-20 06:51:49 +0000 UTC]
Looks great, relayy nice detailed sculpt, faces in particular I can't manage so well done.
if you are working with polymerclar on an armature the recommendation is to use some greenstuff on the armature and while it's still sticky (approx 20 mins after applying) then apply the polymer clay to the greenstuff.
Wait for the GS to set and then your polymerclar will adhere to the armature excellently, you can remove any excess polymerclay and begin sculpting.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Karrakash In reply to maxxev [2014-07-25 17:11:33 +0000 UTC]
Thank you very much for kind words and advice ;]
In the meantime I thought to use GS on wire and it's working well.
Although I felt a little bit ashamed of using so good stuff for base;]
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Roskvape [2012-09-29 03:15:16 +0000 UTC]
Nicely done!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
maxxev In reply to Rovanite [2014-07-20 06:49:32 +0000 UTC]
I can't stand pro-create when I work with it it just starts to flake after a few goes over with the clay shaper, I think the consistancy is easier to work with than Green stuff but the flaking really annoys me.
Mix them both together 60.40 Greenstuff to pro-create and that's a better product, you can do the same with Miliput too, though you don't want too much milliput as it starts getting brittle.
You can use fymo too 60/30/10 - Film, soft and mixquick, lots of professionals use a smiliar mix.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
maxxev In reply to Rovanite [2014-07-21 06:46:10 +0000 UTC]
There are 2 kinds of vulcanising though, hot and cold, Fymo was the primary putty of choice for the sculptors of the Rackham confrontation line which although now OOP (unless you count legacy miniatures) was considered some of the best sculpts ever produced.
The cost of a mould suitable for fymo, resin and plastic parts is slightly higher though, it'a about 15% more expensive.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Karrakash In reply to Rovanite [2012-05-06 16:26:29 +0000 UTC]
Thank you for your advice. I didn't try it. I'm not sure if it is possible to buy it in my country.
I like your gallery. Especially Piramid head;]
Does it mean that you are Silent Hill fan? All those nurses;]Great!
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
dreamfloatingby [2012-02-25 02:23:28 +0000 UTC]
if you put green stuff on the armature first, sculpey firm then has a better time of sticking, and wont shift around on the armature.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Karrakash In reply to RalphNiese [2012-02-23 22:55:29 +0000 UTC]
Thank you.
Yes I know, but I've heard that someone was doing minis SSculpey.
Next one in green stuff! ;]
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
precinctomega [2012-02-21 19:11:25 +0000 UTC]
I think you mean "Mordheim" rather than "Middenheim". I'd love to see her against a conventional Citadel miniature; she looks like a very whimsical vampire and very petite. She reminds me of a recurring vampire in the Black Library back catalogue who was "turned" at the age of 12 and so still looks like a child.
Greenstuff is OK as a medium, and cheap and easy to acquire. However, if you're wanting to work regularly at 28mm, you might also like to check out "greystuff", under its trade name of ProCreate. It carves and files better than greenstuff and sets closer to true, so you don't get that distinctive "organic" finish to the sculpt when it's hardened. Be warned, though, I understand that some sculptors have found it causes an allergic reaction (like Kev White). I found it just fine, but still prefer to handle it with latex gloves.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Karrakash In reply to precinctomega [2012-02-21 19:33:59 +0000 UTC]
Yes,yes I mean Mordheim..I don't know why I always do this mistake;]
Thank you for comment, I'm very happy that you like her.
And thank you for your advice. I'll keep that in mind.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
CrustyCrumble [2012-02-21 15:43:12 +0000 UTC]
Awesome I love the Vampires!
Check out my group 'WarhammerFans'
👍: 0 ⏩: 0