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larrissma — 1570's English Court Gown WIP

Published: 2009-04-24 23:28:32 +0000 UTC; Views: 1624; Favourites: 15; Downloads: 0
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Description I started this dress with the intention of reproducing the outfit in Portrait of an Unknown Girl 1569. However as things progressed, I realised I did not have the time to spend on the embroidery and braiding. However, having already bought the fabric I made the skirt as is, and continued to make bodice of my own design I could wear to displays in the meantime.
The pattern is based on those for Portrait of an Unknown Girl 1569 and The Phoenix 1575 in Jean Hunniset’s Period Costume for the Stage and Screen and The Elizabethan Lady’s Wardrobe. The design is my own, loosely based on some illustrations from John Peacock’s Costume 1066 – 1990’s.
The fabric is a polyester bust orange furnishing fabric with a diamond shaped relief pattern. The bodice is interlined with “shapewell” and the skirt with a cream heavy cotton. The centre front design is crafted from black velveteen and white cord. The sleeves white linen puffs and black and white glass pearls. The sleeves are non-detachable (and, yes, I know that is more 80’s 90’s style). Cuffs and partlet (visible shirt thing) have freestanding motifs of counted blackwork as taken from embroidery pattern in Portrait of an Unknown Girl 1569. The bodice fastens with hooks and eyes at the centre front. The skirt is designed for a forepart, but has none yet.
The dress is worn over a white linen smock, yellow duck edged with crimson corset and yellow duck bumroll (patterns from www.elizabethancostume.net), a canvas Spanish Farthingale (pattern mostly Jean Hunniset) and a white linen partlet to have blackwork.

Left:
Sleeve – sewing on pearls
Sleeves – making linen puffs (these are meant to look as though a chemise is poking through. The period correct the method of faking, which is just what they did, is a little different to my improvised method, but it does the job)
Skirt – gathering 5m of fabric into a 28” waist …

Middle:
Hemming – note farthingale seen through skirt.

Right:
Bodice – fastenings finished, but trim not. (Actually, me dancing Ballo del Fiore)
Bodice – the can I lift my arms test.
Cuffs - Blackwork
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