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MacGwyver — Chibi Cyclops

Published: 2011-10-19 11:55:41 +0000 UTC; Views: 1929; Favourites: 42; Downloads: 21
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Description A little cyclops WIP. There's no back light or any great detail but anyway.
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Comments: 14

KevinArtSeeker [2012-08-30 17:25:38 +0000 UTC]

Heh, looks like a character from the video game "Tak and the Power of Juju". Adorable work!

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MacGwyver In reply to KevinArtSeeker [2012-09-01 01:05:09 +0000 UTC]

Thanks very much. Sounds like a cool game I'll check it out

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Fighterrr [2011-10-23 12:14:04 +0000 UTC]

haha
It is very funy

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MacGwyver In reply to Fighterrr [2011-10-24 01:25:01 +0000 UTC]

Thank you .

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Iris-ArTuts [2011-10-19 17:09:29 +0000 UTC]

it doesn't matter, it's not finished, it's ok! Imagine that my WIPs look so much like shit that there are many times where I get dissapointed about the expected result Nevertheless, I consider this very funny and loveable!

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MacGwyver In reply to Iris-ArTuts [2011-10-24 01:29:41 +0000 UTC]

I'm sure your WIP's don't look like shit. I get disappointed all the time but I just put it aside and come back stronger a bit later.
Thanks for the lovely comment, Iris

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Iris-ArTuts In reply to MacGwyver [2011-10-24 09:13:16 +0000 UTC]

You're very welcome!

When I start dropping highlights / shadows on my paintings, everything seems so "distorted" -if I can put it like this- This disappoints the heck out of me but at the end everything is ok I hope one day I won't feel so disappointed during painting -it's supposed we have fun with it, right?

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MacGwyver In reply to Iris-ArTuts [2011-10-25 00:21:32 +0000 UTC]

How are you doing your shade and light? Is it with burn and dodge or something like that? Those methods can sometimes be too " ghostly" and washed out or distorted for some people if applied too liberally. It can also be hard to control.

A method that seems to work for me is to apply a "base" tone or local value to the areas of your drawing or figure, the base tone , as you know, being the value of an object before light affects it.

I then decide where the line separating light and shade is according to the light source. Everything on the shade side should be darker than anything on the light side and vice verse.

If you make the tonal variations too scattered they will destroy the local value. Also, if you make the shades on your light values too dark or the lights on your dark values too light you will ruin the forms and local value as well.

The other thing is to save up your highlights and darkest tones for contrast to help focus where you want it.

I'm not sure whether this helps as you probably already know these things but, it just seemed like you were wanting advice.

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Iris-ArTuts In reply to MacGwyver [2011-10-25 14:15:15 +0000 UTC]

Thank you for your help! I always appreciate your insight I admire the way you drop shadows / highlights and this advice was very useful for me!

I attented some drawing lessons for... three months? Six? I don't remember, it was a very long time ago, but I learned there about the tones of light and how to apply them. But, it wasn't enough though... so I'm a self-taught artist since then and I try by myself how to become better and better

Yes, I use burn and dodge tool over a grey background with my outlines The silly reason for using burn / dodge tools is that I think I can handle shadows/highlights better, I mean, I "control" shadows/highlights by pen's pressure on my tablet Some times dodge ruins a lot the light and it pisses me off And the day before yesterday, in my last painting, I used white color in normal mode -amen for me

In this link [link] it's a very simple tutorial I made but I think you will understand more or less the way I work I guess that I have to start working colors / tones of grey color, black, white, right?

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MacGwyver In reply to Iris-ArTuts [2011-10-27 12:29:40 +0000 UTC]

No worries Iris. I'm self -taught as well although I wish I had invested in some lessons.

For any new addition to a piece I add a layer. With light areas I use a little bit of colour rather than just white as it tends to be washed out. With the light ( or dark) on a separate layer , you can paint and erase to your heart's content. I also try to get a mixture of hard, soft and lost edges in my more painterly pieces. The hard edges being reserved for the values of highest contrast, such as a highlight on a shadowed eye.

I did check out your tutorial, very interesting. And yes, it will be good to experiment with different colours and values.

If you look up Andrew Loomis, you will find links to download his books for free. I haven't got the link right now but it should be easy to locate his stuff. Loomis is considered the master of realistic style illustration. He extensively covers all topics of art including tonal work and colour. A genius.

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Iris-ArTuts In reply to MacGwyver [2011-10-28 08:40:09 +0000 UTC]

This was very useful tip I'll try it and see what happens

I found Loomis on google and where to download his books They seem very interesting!!! Thank you so much for everything! I really, really appreciate it!

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MacGwyver In reply to Iris-ArTuts [2011-10-28 11:04:47 +0000 UTC]

My pleasure, Iris. I don't mind sharing information. People do it for me all the time You've helped me on more than one occasion.

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Iris-ArTuts In reply to MacGwyver [2011-10-28 12:39:16 +0000 UTC]

I'm very glad to hear this!

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MacGwyver In reply to Iris-ArTuts [2011-10-29 01:29:26 +0000 UTC]

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