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Uber-Kitty [2017-12-08 14:14:57 +0000 UTC]

PATTERN REVIEW: Re-creation of Victorian Bustle Dress from 1880 Godey's Ladies Book. I started this project in February and just now finished this morning of the fashion show.

The dress is from Plate 78 of 80 GODEY'S FULL-COLOR FASHION PLATES 1838-1880 Edited by JoAnne Olian, Dover Publications (c) 1998. The B&W illustration is from p. 291 of English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century by C. Willett Cunnington, Dover Publications (c) 1990.

I altered this pattern to recreate the likeness of the pink and white dress shown in the color illustration using the fabrics shown. The back of the dress is based on the black and white illustration. 

Fabric Used This is a plum color silk dupioni and a 100% natural silk Scalamandre jacquard purchased from France.

Alterations Made I'm between a 16 and 18, so I cut an 18 and took it down where it needed it. 

I extended the pattern on the front bodice so that it resembled the illustration in Godey's. 

I wanted big sleeves so that my waist appears smaller and that also helped disguise my 62-year-old flabby arms. I used piece 15 of Butterick 6630 and sleeve stay 16, but closed it up with box pleats and added two pinch pleats from the era. I added ribbons and lace because they really did junk up sleeves even worse than that. 

My peplum is quite a bit different from the pattern. Because I am short, I chose to have only 5 folds. I made a pattern to the final "size" I wanted, but added half again to the fabric cut out so I could have some gathers to make it stand up a little.

The skirt is basically the same as the original pattern, but a gathered up lower skirt in front to create that 1880 flat front look to the gown as seen in the illustration. I then added vertical panels in the ivory jacquard and tied them together with silk flowers. And of course, the overskirt in the back has been changed to reflect the black and white illustration as well. But I used the same pattern--just added the bow extensions and tacked it up differently.

This is being worn with a cage bustle I ordered from another artist.

Conclusion This is one of those wonderful patterns that can be altered in so many ways to make your project not even resemble the original design. I have over 100 hours of work in this gown.

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