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ajb3art — Riddick Knives 2.0 WIP 2
Published: 2009-05-15 03:14:14 +0000 UTC; Views: 2862; Favourites: 2; Downloads: 1234
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ok this is part 2 of the riddick blade 2.0 rework. first we grinded down the blades to fit teh xacto ergo handles. next i flipped the slide for the blades in teh rear upside down, sealed it, and dropped sculpy in to smooth it out in the seems and such. now sadly i cannot bake these cuz its friggin metal but i'll probably blow torch it a bit before i prime it.Related content
Comments: 12
A heat gun (professional grade) can bake sculpey, the blowtorch may burn the clay without fully setting it.
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oh good to know, i may just go for broke in the oven and hope the paint already on the blade doesn't stink up my whole kitchen
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(most)Acrylics are okay for short bursts of time in the oven when cooking sculpey.
I have used my oven to dry paint before I purchased my heat gun. You'll have to watch it for bubbling, but at the 275 temperature most higher end paints do well and don't bubble until you've surpassed the 15-30 minutes you need to cure the clay.
Some oil paints are heat set so they do perfectly fine in hot temperatures.
Water based oil paints are highly recommended when working with sculpey because the oil based oil paint will destroy the sculpey. It eats into the clay.
Off the top of my head I don't know how enamels do in the oven or under high heat.
With the paint being on metal it may get too hot and run off or bubble quicker, you'll also have to watch the sculpey for burning.
If you're able to; you could try doing a test on the paint you used (painting it on a scrap of metal, and then cooking it in the oven for however long you need to cook the clay for.) That should give you a good indicator of what your paint will do when exposed to the oven and the metal.
Be careful of fumes.
Using a heat gun gives you more control than the oven, which means you can spot cook things, which is why I recommended it. But if that's not an option, hopefully something I've said will be of use to you.
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no u've pretty much sold me on the paint gun, fortunately the paint didn't bubble but ventilation was not enough to get that stink out by dinner sadly. but i primed it up and am letting it sit for 24 before i finish painting it, but i have a heat gun at work and i def want to pick one up. i like teh sculpy III and i may start modding some action figures with it. so thank you for the paint tips i've noted it and will def pick some up next time i make a sculpy run, thanks for all teh great info!
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Get a professional grade heat gun, not the one that they sell for scrapbooking.
I have one of each, and for drying paint the scrapbooking one doesn't get too hot, but for melting things the professional one is 100% hotter.
I've worked with sculpey III and Super Sculpey, sculpey II and the firm sculpey, as well as tried all the clays on the market (in America.)
Depending on what you're trying to do sculpey III might not be the best. Super Sculpey is better at easily holding details without cracking. The sculpey III (depending on the batch it comes from.) Is either too mushy, or it cools down too quick and cracks when you go to add details. Which makes it good for things that don't require a lot of detail. But if you like to play around with your clay and let it sit for a day, come back to it and put in more details, than the Sculpey III isn't a good choice.
The Firm Sculpey (comes in a big box 12$-14$ for a pound.) Is good if you like really firm clay. Hence the name. It's a little harder to get it to smooth, but mixing some of the Super Sculpey can help the problem, or just using a little of the clay softener on your fingertips/tools helps.
The super sculpey is flesh colored and comes in a big green and white box. It holds detail wonderfully, smooths well, and can be easily manipulated for days on end... It's my standard base for most big projects.
Depending on the heat of your hands though will depend on what clay is good for you. If you have hot hands than sculpey in general might not be good for you.
Premo is the another kind of smaller bar clay and it's a lot firmer than sculpey III but not as firm as Fimo (original)
Fimo soft is soft, but does tend to cool quickly and crack, but it does not change color when cooked (like sculpey tends to do (it darkens slightly.) The original Fimo is rock hard. For me it breaks my fingers to try and kneed it... but most of the doll makers I know swear by it.
I know some people use epoxie for their minatures. I have some myself and because it's sticky I tend not to use it, but it is stronger than clay (three times the price of clay and has to be ordered.) Vaseline helps with the stickiness. But other than for bases I can't really recommend it for anything unless you need industrial strength. Though I do know that most miniature makers swear by it and only use the epoxie.
I would highly recommend buying a small bar of each type of clay, and playing around with it before buying a bunch of the clay. You may find that you like the other brands more than sculpey. Sculpey is what everyone carries so its more easily found... But if your art store carries the other brands try them out. Also remember that as long as they bake at the same temperature you can mix brands to get what you want out of it.
Sorry if that was wicked long... and a bunch of stuff you already knew. I tend to be over-helpful.
I hope everything goes as planned.
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wow thats great i really know nothing about clay, when i was getting my degree i was trying for a triple specialization w/ sculpting but my focus was direct metal/foundry stuff like lost wax casting, braising, etc. i didn't get to do anything w/ clay or that so i have noo clue. wax is the ultimate but good luck affording silcon wax haha. very helpful thank you.
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I'm a member of the OOAKGuild
[link]
They helped me out a lot when I started using polymer clay. They are always super helpful, very useful and more than a few of the members are the ones who sell their fairy's for 300$-3000$ on ebay and such.Their tutorials may be useful to you, depending on what you're trying to make. If not, asking them about how to do things always gets you an informed opinion.
Most of them have been using polymer clay for at least 10 years if not longer.
You can find most of them on deviant art and elfwood.
Typing OOAK into the search engine here will show you some of their work. (ignore the my little ponies.) Most of them make fairies.
I started sculpting two years ago (need to update my gallery.) And what I did before I became a member of the guild and what I do now is like night and day...
My degree is in mental health social work... before the moving around the country it was in painting/printmaking, so other than lots of experience with drawing,painting, and woodworking (my parents are carpenters.) I didn't know much about polymer clay, or any other art mediums that have actual practical use (such as metal/foundry 
The guild also has the most up to date news regarding clay, recalls, general warnings... stuff like that, which can help when you're trying to figure out what clay might be going on sale really soon because of changes to the formula.
Have a good weekend.
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Very cool.
Now you can cut people when they are done haha
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we'll see how the hardening goes and then the priming tomorrow, that will give me a better idea of how good it is. also when i finish the final piece i'll post a link to teh board that has a good step by step for this.
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