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Amber-Honey In reply to Lacebug [2014-02-21 14:07:20 +0000 UTC]

Unfortunately, I only use Mr.Super Clear sealant. But look up other tutorials to see what other people are using. I wouldn't use paper sealant because it doesn't spray as finely and I think it stays tacky sometimes (MSC dries quickly, is meant for dolls/figures/kits and sprays very finely), but if you have it on hand maybe you could practice with it and then remove it? I wouldn't spend the money buying a temporary sealant, though, so if you're just starting out I think looking up other people materials may be helpful.

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Lacebug In reply to Amber-Honey [2014-02-21 17:01:46 +0000 UTC]

Thank you very much. Im not sure how much ill like repainting yet, But thank you very much for the advice! 

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Amber-Honey In reply to BarbieVideos [2014-02-21 14:07:41 +0000 UTC]

No problem! I hope it's helpful!

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Amber-Honey In reply to PrincessIrregular [2013-12-11 17:57:08 +0000 UTC]

I think liquitex has non-toxic sealers, but they come in liquid form and need a lot of practice and an airbrush (to achieve the spray effect) to use them on dolls. Even then, the spray could still be bad for inhaling so I really don't think there are any sealants you can use without some kind of protection. This one also happens to be the easiest/best rated sealant to use.

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PrincessIrregular In reply to Amber-Honey [2013-12-12 00:11:28 +0000 UTC]

ah okay, thank you very much. I'll have to go and stalk Amazon for it. *Evil laughter*

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Amber-Honey In reply to NarsisBlack [2013-04-10 17:57:55 +0000 UTC]

Hi there!
It's a little difficult to say without seeing the results I've never tried any watercolor brand other than derwent or prismacolor, and I've only had success with Mr.Super Clear Flat sealant. You didn't mention what type of sealant you use, but if it's MSC, I think you may need to change your watercolor pencils.

You shouldn't have to use more than one or two coats of sealant to get good pencil lines, is what I'm saying :]

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NarsisBlack In reply to Amber-Honey [2013-04-13 10:52:56 +0000 UTC]

thank you so much,

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Amber-Honey In reply to BadgersBakery [2013-03-30 00:33:55 +0000 UTC]

Thank you! ^^

For the body, you can technically use acetone/brush cleaner, but it will melt the hard plastic a little bit and produce a bad smell. I don't recommend it since you can usually remove any doll tattoos with a bit of sanding. The only situation where it may be useful is If you need to remove a previous blush-job.

If you want to blush the body or repair melted plastic, I suggest you lightly sand (using a high grit like 800-2000) and buff the body (you can buff them with a soft cloth). These dolls come with some kind of plastic film that sealant does not adhere to all too well and can cause the blushing to flake- so sanding it first, I think, may be necessary. Brush cleaner isn't needed for the blushing, for the most part.

I hope this is helpful, I'm not an expert on body blushing and have yet to do it, myself. But I've read about this info in several different places from other customizers :]

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BadgersBakery In reply to Amber-Honey [2013-03-30 08:41:33 +0000 UTC]

Thank you so much! I'm planning to buy my first MH for customizing and I had no idea the bodies were made from a different material than the heads I've seen people sand the bodies to remove seams (like here [link] ), they looked so much nicer afterwards, even without blushing (probably with some matte sealant added on top to remove the shine).

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Amber-Honey In reply to Jenn1977 [2013-01-29 05:05:59 +0000 UTC]

Oh, I'm so very glad to be of help!! ^^ Thank you <3

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Amber-Honey In reply to Fairysquisher22 [2012-12-29 17:18:41 +0000 UTC]

Glad to hear that <3 Thank you!

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Amber-Honey In reply to VirginYouth [2012-12-29 17:18:25 +0000 UTC]

Okay :] I'll need a little more info in order to help. May I ask what brand they are? I know, so far, that Derwent and Prismacolor brand watercolor pencils work, but I can't vouch for any other brands as I've not used them. I know some inexpensive brands (Like 'artists loft') do not show up, so perhaps this could be the issue?

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VirginYouth In reply to Amber-Honey [2012-12-29 21:09:09 +0000 UTC]

well they kind of show up when I lick the tip of the pencil, maybe it's the sealant as well?
[link]

I use krylon matte sealant and also noris club watercolor pencils

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Amber-Honey In reply to VirginYouth [2012-12-30 06:28:03 +0000 UTC]

I haven't used either of those so I can't help you much But it must, at least, be one of them that is causing the issue. You shouldn't have to dampen the pencils to get them to show up.

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VirginYouth In reply to Amber-Honey [2013-01-16 02:19:23 +0000 UTC]

I finally got the spray and I was hoping you would check out the dolls!

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Amber-Honey In reply to VirginYouth [2013-01-29 05:12:14 +0000 UTC]

Sorry for my very delayed response! I checked them out and I think they're looking great! Do you like the spray? I hope it worked out for you ^^

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VirginYouth In reply to Amber-Honey [2013-01-31 07:23:57 +0000 UTC]

it is working out amazingly! Thank you so much for helping me out<3

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VirginYouth In reply to Amber-Honey [2012-12-30 08:59:44 +0000 UTC]

oh no, the ones you listed are a bit pricey. what to do

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Amber-Honey In reply to DawningRose [2012-12-29 17:20:16 +0000 UTC]

(Ridiculously late reply here, sorry!) Thanks for heeding the warning, that stuff is plastic in a bottle so it's best to keep it out of your throat and lungs ^^

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DawningRose In reply to Amber-Honey [2012-12-29 20:20:16 +0000 UTC]

Yep

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Amber-Honey In reply to arshana [2012-11-11 14:55:16 +0000 UTC]

The sealant is the bulk of the repaint, unfortunately
It creates tooth so that the pastels stick to the face (vinyl does not hold pastels on it's own too well), it prevents the pastels/colors from staining the vinyl, it keeps the repaint waterproof (protecting your hard work) and it makes the watercolor pencils also show on the vinyl.

I pretty much wouldn't have a repaint without the sealant, lol.

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Amber-Honey In reply to NarsisBlack [2012-11-09 20:42:56 +0000 UTC]

to be honest, I'm not sure how well fixative would would work for a doll repaint, I've never tried it - sorry!
I hope you can find the info~

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NarsisBlack In reply to Amber-Honey [2012-11-09 21:08:06 +0000 UTC]

tanx! ^__^

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Amber-Honey In reply to Gwendalin-Niles [2012-11-07 01:58:20 +0000 UTC]

Unfortunately I'm not very skilled with BJDs, atm ; w;
I really hope to practice some more with them, though~

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Amber-Honey In reply to LunarLotis [2012-11-04 03:06:24 +0000 UTC]

Sorry for the terribly late reply!
I'm currently testing out some 'schmincke' pastels and also use 'artist loft' pastels :] I haven't tried any derwent pastels, but any artist grade brand should work as long as you don't use oil pastels (only the powdery kind).

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Amber-Honey In reply to NarsisBlack [2012-10-24 21:22:07 +0000 UTC]

Sure^^
Sealant is what makes the repaint waterproof. It also helps the pastels stick to the face smoothly and makes watercolor-pencil's strokes vibrant (without sealant, pastels would be blotchy, watercolor-pencils would not show up well, and the face could easily be wiped away or smudged). I recommend using Mr.Super Clear Flat.

For sandpaper, I just used a superfine-grade. You can use any grade, really, you can even use regular paper (if you need something temporary) so long as you're 'grinding' the pastels on something, which will produce powder.

If you have more expensive pastels, they will probably be more pigmented and powdery and will not need any sandpaper, though - you can just swipe them with a brush.

Hope this is helpful :]

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NarsisBlack In reply to Amber-Honey [2012-10-25 15:09:40 +0000 UTC]

thank you soo much!

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Amber-Honey In reply to Pixar-Pixie [2012-07-18 23:43:07 +0000 UTC]

To be honest, I don't actually have a specific place to buy if from, just the general "buy online" advice is what I can offer
The latest place I purchased my cans from was Ebay, but they currently go for over $20 if you include shipping and buy them from US sellers. For that reason I suggest you check all the links available on a search engine to find the best deal. Sometimes online hobby shops have better prices :]

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Pixar-Pixie In reply to Amber-Honey [2012-07-19 08:04:16 +0000 UTC]

I've seen some different canisters for the Mr.Super Clear,I tried comparing the picture.
I think I know which one to get though.


Thank you very much!

I've been very interested in re-painting dolls for quite some time now.
(But I've been so busy,it's a bit overwhelming!)
I love your tutorial and it really gave me a good idea and the right inspiration to get out and do it!


If it is alright,may I ask another question?
I hopefully promise this will be my last one. ;u;
Besides the pastels seen here,are there any other kind you use that work just as nicely?

Again,thank you very much.
ouo

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Amber-Honey In reply to Pixar-Pixie [2012-07-20 23:03:18 +0000 UTC]

Oh, yes, make sure the type of MSC you are buying is FLAT (UV cut Flat or just regular Flat - none of the glossy kind)

Unfortunately I have yet to get any other pastels, but I've been meaning to try out some new ones so if I find a significant difference in performance I'll definitely mention it :3

Good luck on getting started

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Pixar-Pixie In reply to Amber-Honey [2012-07-21 08:09:47 +0000 UTC]

Thank you so much for that info!


I go shopping tomorrow!
>

I was actually lucky enough to chance upon a good selection of monster high dolls at my local store.
( Normally there is a really bad selection)
So I bought my first monster high doll,Draculaura.
( Though I just re-named her "Laura" as my friend did,as I do not like the "Dracu" in front of it..I also just made her the daughter of a vampire instead of Count Dracula due to my love of the original man)
;u;

Thank you so,so much!

You've been so helpful,I'm very grateful.
8)

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