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Description
This method of drawing out a curve is accurate, but somewhat technical and perhaps a little more time consuming. I hope you can make sense of it. Start with measuring 3 inch increments for your columns down the length of the board or blank. You will need a square and a right angle triangle. Find the center of the board, this will be the center of the blade. Starting at the center, 0 (the edge of the board). You may use whatever unit of measurement you like, i typically use Millimeters. In the photo, ive listed the formula for each 3 inch increment so you know how i came up with it, but the important number is the sum which is provided. 0, 1, 3, 6, 10, 15, and 21. Plot your points with the other side and connect the dots . This will be the front (actual) edge. Now creating the points for the back edge of the blade is a little more time consuming. You must have a right angle for this step. Refer to the photo, you want to draw a right angle for every point and line you just created. This is how to create the back edge and width of your blade. I usually go with 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 for the width of a standard blade. Authentic Japanese blades sometimes are wider at the base than the tip. But this method is even throughout. By using your triangle to create the back edge points, you are making that edge more accurate and consistent rather than using the original vertical lines you first created to make your front edge. Make sense? I hope this was useful. All thats left is to cut it out using a reciprocating or jig saw. Once cut out and sanded, you wont even be able to tell that your blade is a series of straight lines! Good Luck! If there is anything you dont quite understand, please feel free to ask....

re: edit**** should have mentioned this before. once you have one side plotted and drawn out, make sure you do the same thing to the other side, again starting at the center. thanks^^

Description
This method of drawing out a curve is accurate, but somewhat technical and perhaps a little more time consuming. I hope you can make sense of it. Start with measuring 3 inch increments for your columns down the length of the board or blank. You will need a square and a right angle triangle. Find the center of the board, this will be the center of the blade. Starting at the center, 0 (the edge of the board). You may use whatever unit of measurement you like, i typically use Millimeters. In the photo, ive listed the formula for each 3 inch increment so you know how i came up with it, but the important number is the sum which is provided. 0, 1, 3, 6, 10, 15, and 21. Plot your points with the other side and connect the dots . This will be the front (actual) edge. Now creating the points for the back edge of the blade is a little more time consuming. You must have a right angle for this step. Refer to the photo, you want to draw a right angle for every point and line you just created. This is how to create the back edge and width of your blade. I usually go with 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 for the width of a standard blade. Authentic Japanese blades sometimes are wider at the base than the tip. But this method is even throughout. By using your triangle to create the back edge points, you are making that edge more accurate and consistent rather than using the original vertical lines you first created to make your front edge. Make sense? I hope this was useful. All thats left is to cut it out using a reciprocating or jig saw. Once cut out and sanded, you wont even be able to tell that your blade is a series of straight lines! Good Luck! If there is anything you dont quite understand, please feel free to ask....

re: edit**** should have mentioned this before. once you have one side plotted and drawn out, make sure you do the same thing to the other side, again starting at the center. thanks^^