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Published: 2017-09-27 08:53:54 +0000 UTC; Views: 354; Favourites: 56; Downloads: 0
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Description
Harris's Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus, WΓΌstenbussard)Wildpark LΓΌneburger Heide
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Taken with a Canon EOS 7D Mark II, Tamron AF 70-300mm 4-5.6 Di SP VC USD Lens
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Comments: 16
Thanks, I'm glad you like it!
In hindsight, I should've stopped down to at least f/7.1 or 8.0 to get that extra bit of sharpness, but I forgot about it and was shooting in shutter priority at the time...
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Looking at the technicals of the shot, I would say you could have gotten away with the sharper aperture. Your camera does really well at that high ISO, and that fast of a shutter speed is not really necessary for most photos. Even a bird in flight. Probably 1/500 would give a good result with no noticeable blur. Depending on the lens, but many lenses are at their peak image quality in the f/8 range.
I've settled into usually shooting aperture priority when I don't want to mess with full manual.Β
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You are right. This particular shot would've been fine at 1/500th, since the bird was heading almost straight towards me. Even considering that the faster birds were moving all over the place during the show (this being one of them), 1/1000th should've been enough for any situation.
That being said, I wasn't sure how far I could dial the shutter speed down since I didn't yet have too much experience with such fast-moving subjects, so I wanted to be sure the photos would not be ruined by motion blur.
I agree about the ISO. With my old camera - an EOS 1100D (Rebel T3 in the US) - I would rarely go above 400 or 800 at most, since noise would tend to ruin an otherwise fine picture beyond that point. With the 7D2 I have completely changed the way I shoot, now using Auto ISO under most circumstances while shooting in M or AV mode. For fast-moving subjects such as birds in flight I configured one of the custom modes to use manual mode with Auto ISO, allowing me to quickly adjust shutter speed and aperture according to the situation.
As for the lens, I was using a Tamron 70-300mm 4-5.6 lens with image stabilization (called vibration control on Tamron lenses). It's a great wildlife lens for around ~300 EUR at the time, but definitely needs to be stopped down to 8.0 ideally in order to provide decent sharpness at maximum focal length. As a matter of fact, I have since added a Canon 400mm f/5.6L lens to my collection - which I love! - and despite its superior optics, it should at least be stopped to f/7.1 as well. That actually came as a surprise to me, since I had heard so much about the famed sharpness of the 400mm f/5.6L even when shot wide open.
By the way, aperture priority is my go-to mode as well; I'd settle for M mode with Auto ISO, but that won't allow quick adjustments to exposure compensation for backlit subjects like a bird sitting on a branch, so I use AV most of the time.
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I'm using the T3 right now. I'm actually not too happy with it, as the noise is truly and issue, makes the higher ISO settings essentially useless. when shooting video it doesn't have auto-focus while shooting. Also, I was out the other evening trying to shoot a skyline at night, and I was getting image blur. There is something going on where when I depress the shutter button (actually I had it on a shutter release cable, so it's not me bumping the camera) some interior component seems to shift, then slowly move back to position. I quit before I could explore the problem further. But the set up was the camera on a tripod, the shutter release cable, manual focus, and full manual exposure control. Weird situation. I gave away my old T1, which I kinda miss now.
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Just a quick question: Are you using the T3 (EOS 1100D) or T3i (EOS 600D)? Those two are not quite the same (12MP vs 18MP resolution, among other things).
Regarding your problem, is there any chance your tripod or one of its components might have moved? I've had this happen on my tripod occasionally with a 3-way-head, and now that I've swapped it for a ball head I have to take even more care to tighten the knob that's supposed to lock it into place. There *shouldn't* be an interior camera component moving around unless something is broken - not even sure that's possible without the camera malfunctioning - , so I'm thinking the tripod (or more specifically the head) might be moving just ever so slightly - not enough to be noticeable when looking at it, but enough to blur your image. Maybe the vibration from the mirror going up is so strong it causes the tripod head to move?
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I'm going to set it up again for a night shot and do mirror lock and shutter delay to eliminate those possibilities. I was thinking it strange in the extreme for it to (apparently) be an internal component. We'll see. I have the T3i 18MP model.
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Thanks a lot for your comment!
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Thank you!
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Thanks!
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Thanks a lot! I'm happy to hear you like them!
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